My Highland Travelogue

Welcome to my Highland Travelogue Page.   My passion is to explore the Scottish Highland Upland Lochs. When time permits, I will drive to a remote location, park the car, fasten on my backpack and trusty camera, and trek a few miles to discover a hidden Loch or Lochan. My pleasure is to explore the smaller, hidden Lochs and Lochans, rather than the larger, well known ones that are already well documented. 

I think that certain places are "healing" , and I begin to understand why when I sit by a lonely stretch of water, with nobody and nothing around for miles. So far, most of my expeditions have been in Highland Perthshire, for logistical and economic reasons, but I hope to travel further as time passes. I think that maybe I am frightened that my Highlands are threatened and that they may vanish. Perhaps to record them on photograph is my mission? When I stumble unexpectedley on one of those jaw-dropping views, I have mixed thoughts - firstly, I want to share it with the world, then, when I think on, I selfishly want to keep it all to myself.  Often I just stand a while in wonderment.

I am no scientist, but many of our small inland Lochs and Lochans are in decline.
Each has its own mini eco system, and it is the decay of this that is the problem.
Each eco system is made up of many interactive and interdependent parts - water,sediment,fish,insects,animals,weather. Eutrophication (chemical and acid pollution) is causing serious problems to our smaller Lochs and Lochans that do not get the same level of monitoring and protection as those larger and better known examples adopted by S.E.P.A.
The decline of insect life affects the fish life, which affects the Lochan itself, which affects the bird and animal life.
This then causes (some) of the Lochans to be affected by Algae and Reed cover, which then affects light penetration, photosynthesis and the general "life" of the Lochan goes into a rapid decline.
This is happening now. Already, some of the large Raptors are coming down to road level to find food.

I dont know how long they will be there for us, but I have to record them as they are now.
I hope I am wrong.

Above all, I feel priviledged to be allowed the honour to walk on this sacred land - I am finite, my footsteps will soon vanish, but this wonderful place will stand for millions of years.

I will try to describe my adventures as best as I can and I hope that I can share my wonderful Highlands with you.

"Enjoy Life's Journey, But Leave No Tracks" (Cherokee Wolf Clan, with thanks to Sue)

"Your travelogue helped to influence our choice of destination as your pictures and details are superb and really do give that `get away from it all feeling`- Martin Rutherford

Like a large Highland Loch on your wall?  - click here!

If you have any questions about the places I visit, please e-mail me and I will do my best to help!

Creag an Loch, Loch Fender, and The News From Rannoch

Posted by Graham Lumsden (highlandp) on Jan 02 2010 at 11:11 PM
Highland Travelogue >>

A warm, sunny day in Perth, but ominous black cloud to the West as I headed for Glen Quaich once more.

Right at Gilmerton and through the Sma' Glen, left at Amulree. Once more, the shepherd, or rather his two dogs,

was moving his sheep to a new pasture and I, along with ilka others watched spellbound as these incredible dogs

worked tirelessly and without instruction of any kind to move the flock. All the shepherd had to do was trundle

along behind in his tiny tractor. Fantastic experience to behold.

I eventually drove the length of Loch Freuchie and parked at the North West end.

I made my way along the path past the Loch end and through the farm steading.

You need to bear left here otherwise the Rob Roy Way will take you back to Amulree

The track climbs steeply and you soon reach the heather level. The heather has turned,

and I had a glorious pathway to follow

Some beautiful flowers up here and some gorgeous views too

You head up towards these two shooting bothy's. The Grouse season starts next week and these hills will

echo to the sound of "Slaughterin' Guns"*

I disturbed several groups of these fine birds enjoying their last few days on earth.

The good track will take you all the way across to The Griffen, but I wanted to find the elusive and reclusive

Loch Fender set in a deep corrie North East of Creag an Loch.

This means that I had to leave the track at this point and climb through heather and bog to the summit

at 2004 feet.

I found Wild Blaeberries growing on the summit

At this point, the weather changed dramatically and within just a few minutes, a rain squall swept down

the Glen and I was soaked

These two photos were taken just minutes apart

Over the crest and Loch Fender appears. This is one of the hardest Lochs to reach that I have attempted.

It has no approach paths of any kind and is well hidden in its deep corrie

Although rain-sodden, I sat and enjoyed lunch and experienced that unique solitude that I only ever find at my Lochs

The silence was complete, apart from the gentle drumming pattern of rain - I actually fell asleep to the rhythm.

I then made my (very careful) way back down to the track. Great care must be taken to avoid a twisted ankle.

Also, there are many peat "islands" up here, surrounded by sucking bog, and careful navigation is needed.

The way back is the exact opposite of the ingress, or you could return by the Griffen path if you can arrange a pick-up at that end

The News From Rannoch - this is where I get political and I will apologise to no-one for it, such is its importance,

but I do have to be careful what I say, so some phrases have been toned down from what I really think.

The recently announced multi-billion pound leisure development at Rannoch is totally unacceptable.

It matters not how much money is thrown at us, or how many jobs are created (yes, I know its not me without a job),

you cannot simply buy up this country. There is only one Wilderness, and once its gone, it is gone forever.

I know this development will not be the end of The Wilderness, but it will be the beginning of the end,

as foreign investors are never stopped by planners - witness the the Pitmedden affair,

the treament of Martin Ford, and the fight for the scraps at Trump's table.

Do we really want tartan-clad servants toadying to the whims of foreign billionaires?

It would be a step nearer to fulfilling the image of the "shortbread tin" land.

I will fight with my last breath to stop this and I urge anyone who loves this land to do likewise

End of sermon.

I hope you enjoyed my trip and that you will leave me a comment - good or bad!

* Now Westlin' Winds by Robert Burns, arrangement by Dick Gaughan.

" Now westlin winds and slaughtering guns
Bring autumn's pleasant weather
The moorcock springs on whirring wings
Among the blooming heather
Now waving grain, wild o'er the plain
Delights the weary farmer
And the moon shines bright as I rove at night
To muse upon my charmer

The partridge loves the fruitful fells
The plover loves the mountain
The woodcock haunts the lonely dells
The soaring hern the fountain
Through lofty groves the cushat roves
The path of man to shun it
The hazel bush o'erhangs the thrush
The spreading thorn the linnet

Thus every kind their pleasure find
The savage and the tender
Some social join and leagues combine
Some solitary wander
Avaunt! Away! the cruel sway,
Tyrannic man's dominion
The sportsman's joy, the murdering cry
The fluttering, gory pinion

But Peggy dear the evening's clear
Thick flies the skimming swallow
The sky is blue, the fields in view
All fading green and yellow
Come let us stray our gladsome way
And view the charms of nature
The rustling corn, the fruited thorn
And every happy creature

We'll gently walk and sweetly talk
Till the silent moon shines clearly
I'll grasp thy waist and, fondly pressed,
Swear how I love thee dearly
Not vernal showers to budding flowers
Not autumn to the farmer
So dear can be as thou to me
My fair, my lovely charmer"

 

 

 

 

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Comments

Scrappy By ANON on Aug 09 2009 at 12:26 PM
Hi Friend!
You know I love your wilderness and am ready to get "scrappy" along with you! How can anyone view this beauty and not agree? Thanks for the lovely heather pictures. I hope I'll someday see it myself! What is on the large boulder high on the summit? It looks like some sort of sign, but I can't read it! I love how the light has changed now that fall is approaching! Keep hiking! You make it real for us!
Sue
Re: Scrappy By Graham Lumsden on Aug 09 2009 at 8:08 PM
Thanks for your support good friend - I have a feeling we are going to need it! You are right about the light changing. I also felt the wind change yesterday, and I saw my first Daddy Long Legs of August. The sign says "High Line 1 - 10" and indicates the route to the top 10 Grouse Butts (grass and stone revetments to house the Grouse Guns)
born servants By ANON on Apr 10 2010 at 11:02 PM
yes the rich are buying up rannoch again, and as usual claiming the best spots ...

ironic though that you condemn the rannoch 'development' on the same page you display the shooting butts and huts of glen quaich. these too are for the rich, with scots peasants to drive the birds. these hills would not be so bare if they were not kept so for the grouse and the sheep (originally) of the rich and would support much more wildlife in less acidic soils if the peat that comes with the grouse and the sheep was returned to cattle.

griffin was once cattle pasture and the area, as you'll have seen from your walks, supported many more people. the whims of the rich landowners turned it to sheep and grouse moor, then the whims of the insurance companies turned it to imported trees, now the whims of the power companies dictate windmills, and the natives are bought off with their money. the truth is scots have been servants to the rich for many centuries, servants to the lairds, to french aristocrats, servants to the british military. we like it that way.

it's why we dream Wallace and 'braveheart' because we are incapable of defending our land. We have so little real freedom or the bravery required to claim it. We dream to escape our servitude and in reality acquiesce to our masters because we are scared and secure in our slavery.

We won't *become* 'tartan-clad servants toadying to the whims of foreign billionaires' - we already are ...


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