My Highland Travelogue

Welcome to my Highland Travelogue Page.   My passion is to explore the Scottish Highland Upland Lochs. When time permits, I will drive to a remote location, park the car, fasten on my backpack and trusty camera, and trek a few miles to discover a hidden Loch or Lochan. My pleasure is to explore the smaller, hidden Lochs and Lochans, rather than the larger, well known ones that are already well documented. 

I think that certain places are "healing" , and I begin to understand why when I sit by a lonely stretch of water, with nobody and nothing around for miles. So far, most of my expeditions have been in Highland Perthshire, for logistical and economic reasons, but I hope to travel further as time passes. I think that maybe I am frightened that my Highlands are threatened and that they may vanish. Perhaps to record them on photograph is my mission? When I stumble unexpectedley on one of those jaw-dropping views, I have mixed thoughts - firstly, I want to share it with the world, then, when I think on, I selfishly want to keep it all to myself.  Often I just stand a while in wonderment.

I am no scientist, but many of our small inland Lochs and Lochans are in decline.
Each has its own mini eco system, and it is the decay of this that is the problem.
Each eco system is made up of many interactive and interdependent parts - water,sediment,fish,insects,animals,weather. Eutrophication (chemical and acid pollution) is causing serious problems to our smaller Lochs and Lochans that do not get the same level of monitoring and protection as those larger and better known examples adopted by S.E.P.A.
The decline of insect life affects the fish life, which affects the Lochan itself, which affects the bird and animal life.
This then causes (some) of the Lochans to be affected by Algae and Reed cover, which then affects light penetration, photosynthesis and the general "life" of the Lochan goes into a rapid decline.
This is happening now. Already, some of the large Raptors are coming down to road level to find food.

I dont know how long they will be there for us, but I have to record them as they are now.
I hope I am wrong.

Above all, I feel priviledged to be allowed the honour to walk on this sacred land - I am finite, my footsteps will soon vanish, but this wonderful place will stand for millions of years.

I will try to describe my adventures as best as I can and I hope that I can share my wonderful Highlands with you.

"Enjoy Life's Journey, But Leave No Tracks" (Cherokee Wolf Clan, with thanks to Sue)

"Your travelogue helped to influence our choice of destination as your pictures and details are superb and really do give that `get away from it all feeling`- Martin Rutherford

Like a large Highland Loch on your wall?  - click here!

If you have any questions about the places I visit, please e-mail me and I will do my best to help!

Dos Amigos
Posted by Graham Lumsden (highlandp) on Oct 28 2009 at 8:23 PM
Highland Travelogue >>

A guest travelogue written by my great friend, Sue

A few years ago a book written by Robert Fulghum became very popular in the United States

All I Really Need to Know I Learned in Kindergarten summed up the simplicity of what life should be all about.

I had the rare and wonderful opportunity to spend this past week in Scotland hiking with my best Buddy Graham. 

He asked me if I would write a guest travelogue for his site, and after thinking long and hard I decided there was no way to choose one of our adventures.

The week held so much that to sum it up by writing about just one of our walks would simply be impossible.

So, I decided that I would share the joy of this week in a summary of all I have learned….

All I really need to know I learned while hiking in Scotland:

In the words of Robert Fulghum:,

“These are the things I learned: Share everything. Play fair. Don't hit people. Put things back where you found them. Clean up your own mess……”

Loch Errochty and Loch Conn:

We set out early Tuesday morning (my first full day in Scotland) with hopes of sunshine and good light. 

The first thing I learned was to follow in my Buddy’s footsteps so as to not step in “sucking bog”. 

I had heard Graham mention this, but got my first experience when my walking pole was “sucked in”. 

It ended up being much boggier than it looked, but all I needed to do was follow Graham’s steps and advice
(always stick to the heather and step on the red moss).

Making it to the top of the summit was my first real hiking “conquest” and no small feat for me, as I am not really a hill climber,

but more of a lowland walker.  The view from above was amazing, but the wind was so strong and cold that we didn’t tarry there long.

We were off again to discover our destination(s).  This was a great walk because we were able to visit both Loch Errochty and Loch Conn,

which are located quite close to one another.  Once reaching Loch Conn we saw this lovely boat house and we noticed vehicles. 

We were met by the Ranger and his dogs, off to check on some hunters (more on that later).

We made our way around the loch to the shelter of some remaining stones.  This gave us a break from the cold wind

(Graham informed me that this wasn’t really a “cold” wind, but being a girl from Tennessee it seemed pretty cold to me!).

Here we had lunch and a wonderful warm cup of tea before moving on.

The next thing I learned (I actually already knew this from being a Girl Scout) is to always leave your site just like you found it. 

We even ended up bringing home someone else’s trash, because we both have a love for this land

(Graham’s is long-standing and deep, mine much more recent) and a fear of what might happen to it if we don’t care for it.

Now it was time to start back.  I learned that you never take weather for granted in this wild country. 

Graham kept an eye to the sky all throughout the day, and we decided to head back before the clouds had a chance to open up on us.

I will never cease to be amazed by the openness and freedom of this place.  On the way back to the car we met up with some of the residents,

who really didn’t seem too concerned that we were moving around on their turf.

I’ve learned that freedom to explore this beautiful land came in the form of a Land Reform Act, which allows hikers

and walkers to move about freely as long as they do no harm to the places where their journeys take them.

Oh how I envy this reform, being from the land of the “No Trespassing” sign!

Just before reaching the car we met up with the ranger once again, and this time he had a few friends with him.

Not my favorite way to see the wildlife, but a necessity in an area where the deer are increasing to unmanageable numbers.

Mill Dam: “Take a nap every afternoon. When you go out into the world, watch for traffic, hold hands, and stick together.

Be aware of wonder…… “

On Thursday we headed for one of my favorite of Graham’s former walks.  I don’t know what it is that has always intrigued me about Mill Dam,

but today proved the perfect day for this walk.  After the cold wind and low light of Tuesday, we were blessed with beautiful warm sunshine.

We actually ended up complaining about being too warm…. in Scotland

!!!  Go figure! 

The sunshine brought out beautiful colors in the trees of the surrounding countryside.

Once we reached the Loch I saw one of my favorite views from Graham’s previous travelogue. 

This blue boat on this peaceful little Loch has always been a special sight for me… and not just me. 

My daughter has the same photo hanging on her wall in her home in Colorado.

We made our way around the Loch and over a small burn to a grove of birch trees where we had our lunch. 

We both noticed what was missing in this spot.  Noise.  It was wonderfully peaceful, and would have been a great place

to drop off for a nap….. however, time was not our friend and we had places to be, so…….

But there was time for Graham to show me how to use his flint and steel to make the sparks necessary to light a fire. 

Girl Scout or not, I had never even had the chance to try one of these before. 

The Lost Valley of Glencoe

“Goldfish and hamsters and white mice and even the little seed in the plastic cup - they all die. So do we.”

The next day (Friday) we were off again to experience the mystery and wildness that is Glencoe. 

I will tell you that there were two pivotal moments in my journeys around Scotland during this trip. 

Both involved the Wild Beauty of Rannoch Moor.  As we were heading toward Glencoe we came upon one of the most beautiful sights

I have ever witnessed.  Graham warned me that there would be places that would take my breath away and bring tears to my eyes. 

This was one.

Coming around a bend in the road to witness this scene made me feel like I had just entered a different world. 

This beautiful land holds so many surprises, not the least of which is the fact that stark and barren wilderness contains

an unmatched beauty all its own.

We had planned to take on the Lost Valley of Glencoe today, and even the rain and fog could not deter us from setting out.

As we parked in the car park at the base of the Three Sisters we saw other walkers, some dressed appropriately

and others shockingly un-prepared to take on this landscape. 

I thought I was in the first group, having tried to follow Graham’s advice for what to bring and wear on our hiking journeys. 

It took me only a matter of moments to discover how wrong I was. 

We were barely down the first stretch of the trail before my (water resistant!) hiking clothes were soaked.

Within minutes my hands were cold and my gloves were wet all the way through. 

Only my feet stayed dry on this dismal afternoon, thanks to a fantastic new pair of hiking boots. 

We moved up and up this path over slippery wooden bridges and even more slippery rocks. 

At one point the Mountain Rescue Helicopter moved above us to our left and into the next canyon (Glen! Ed ;-)

over, apparently to rescue someone not able to handle the hike and conditions. 

It wasn’t long after this that I realized that I, as well, was not up to this climb in this weather. 

We turned back and only stopped long enough to get a shot of this glorious Rowan tree, berries in full array,

even in this most unforgiving wilderness.

In Glencoe I learned that you never take the mountains or the weather for granted. 

Sometimes it can be a matter of life and death. ……and I learned the value of a true friend who says

“You never leave your Buddy behind”.

Loch Rannoch and Rannoch Moor: “And then remember the book about Dick and Jane

and the first word you learned, the biggest word of all: LOOK .Everything you need to know is in there somewhere.

The Golden Rule and love and basic sanitation, ecology and politics and sane living. “

Our final adventure… the one I was really waiting for.

On Sunday, my last day in Scotland we journeyed to Loch Rannoch and the edge of the wild Rannoch Moor.

I wish I could tell you why this place holds such meaning to me. 

Up ‘til this trip I had never laid eyes upon it except in Graham’s photographs….. but there is something here,

something that gets right into your soul and your spirit.  This was my second pivotal moment. 

We stopped by the ruins of this crofter’s cottage and time stopped for me. 

On the brink of that small rise I felt, for the first time in a long time (maybe ever) that I had found a place where I belonged.

This was a really important moment to me for several reasons.  Graham has been sharing with me the proposed development of a section of Rannoch Moor

to become a new “playground for the rich and famous”.  I have tried to stay on top of what was happening and be as pro-active as a person can be who

lives thousands of miles away and seemingly has little to gain or lose either way. 

This moment on the moor was like a lightening bolt, striking me with the realization that there is no other place on earth like this place. 

It is worth fighting for, and it’s loss would be a tragedy for us all. We moved on to Loch Laidon and I was able to see the glory of Glencoe from the far end of the Loch

This is my dream for next summer…. To walk the pathway from Loch Rannoch to Glencoe with my Buddy.

And so I ended my wonderful adventures… at least for this trip, with visions of the past, and the glory of this great land,

and a dream for the future… that what remains of its unspoiled beauty will go on for generations to come.

And so Robert Fulghum (and I) conclude with these thoughts……

“Think of what a better world it would be if we all - the whole world - had cookies and milk (or tea and shortbread)

about 3 o'clock every afternoon and then lay down with our blankets for a nap.

Or if we had a basic policy in our nation and other nations to always put things back where we found them and clean up our own messes.

And it is still true, no matter how old you are, when you go out into the world, it is best to hold hands and stick together.”

Thanks Graham!!

Fulgham, Robert,  All I Really Need to  Know I Learned in Kindergarten: Uncommon thoughts on common things,

c. 1988, New York, Villard Books

Sue and I would love you to leave a comment!

Comments

Looking For Fishing? Just type the location in the box below: