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My Highland Travelogue

Welcome to my Highland Travelogue Page.   My passion is to explore the Scottish Highland Upland Lochs. When time permits, I will drive to a remote location, park the car, fasten on my backpack and trusty camera, and trek a few miles to discover a hidden Loch or Lochan. My pleasure is to explore the smaller, hidden Lochs and Lochans, rather than the larger, well known ones that are already well documented. 

I think that certain places are "healing" , and I begin to understand why when I sit by a lonely stretch of water, with nobody and nothing around for miles. So far, most of my expeditions have been in Highland Perthshire, for logistical and economic reasons, but I hope to travel further as time passes. I think that maybe I am frightened that my Highlands are threatened and that they may vanish. Perhaps to record them on photograph is my mission? When I stumble unexpectedley on one of those jaw-dropping views, I have mixed thoughts - firstly, I want to share it with the world, then, when I think on, I selfishly want to keep it all to myself.  Often I just stand a while in wonderment.

I am no scientist, but many of our small inland Lochs and Lochans are in decline.
Each has its own mini eco system, and it is the decay of this that is the problem.
Each eco system is made up of many interactive and interdependent parts - water,sediment,fish,insects,animals,weather. Eutrophication (chemical and acid pollution) is causing serious problems to our smaller Lochs and Lochans that do not get the same level of monitoring and protection as those larger and better known examples adopted by S.E.P.A.
The decline of insect life affects the fish life, which affects the Lochan itself, which affects the bird and animal life.
This then causes (some) of the Lochans to be affected by Algae and Reed cover, which then affects light penetration, photosynthesis and the general "life" of the Lochan goes into a rapid decline.
This is happening now. Already, some of the large Raptors are coming down to road level to find food.

I dont know how long they will be there for us, but I have to record them as they are now.
I hope I am wrong.

Above all, I feel priviledged to be allowed the honour to walk on this sacred land - I am finite, my footsteps will soon vanish, but this wonderful place will stand for millions of years.

I will try to describe my adventures as best as I can and I hope that I can share my wonderful Highlands with you.

"Enjoy Life's Journey, But Leave No Tracks" (Cherokee Wolf Clan, with thanks to Sue)

"Your travelogue helped to influence our choice of destination as your pictures and details are superb and really do give that `get away from it all feeling`- Martin Rutherford

If you have any questions about the places I visit, please e-mail me and I will do my best to help!

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Loch Formal, the Griffin, and an ecological warning to us all.

Posted by Graham Lumsden (highlandp) on Sep 06 2010 at 7:02 PM
Highland Travels >>

Those of you who have followed my travels and, in particular, my love/hate relationship with my arch-nemesis - The Griffin Forest, will realise that I did not relish another journey through this vast conifer plantation that lives between Dunkeld and Aberfeldy. On a previous trip to Loch Hoil, I had spotted a tiny loch at the foot of Craig Formal that did not appear to have any access paths. This always intrigues me with the promise of peace, quiet, and seclusion.The only problem is - access! On a cold, windy and misty day, (which means poor quality photos - sorry!) I set off up the A9 and turned left onto the Crieff Road at Dunkeld, past Inver and Trochry, and turned right up the Glen Cochill Road towards Aberfeldy. I had earmarked a parking place/trailhead at NN 875472, but the path was closed off by a 6 foot padlocked gate. Plan B was via a disused quarry. I parked in a small layby with a handy little parking space (NN874463).

A broken gate allowed me to duck underneath and I followed the rough path up to the quarry. 

The quarry is an eerie place, narrow, with steep sided canyons and studded with rusting metal, soft bog underfoot. The quarry is a dead-end. I made my way up the left escarpment - carefully, through ankle-breaking heather. I had spotted a firebreak (on the map) behind the quarry and I soon found it. Then it was just a "heid-doon-crash".          ( A "heid-doon-crash" is my way of penetrating The Griffin.) I simply pull my hat over my face, close my eyes, lower my head, bull-fashion, and "crash" my way through. I cant recommend this to anyone else, but it works for me over short, heavily forested areas.  I emerged safely onto the good forestry track and turned to my right.

As I passed Elrig Mhor, the path veered left and uphill.

A short while later, the path emerged into open heather moorland, with Craig Formal on my right. I found a very rough path that seemed to head where I was going - Southeast - and I followed it over several undulating ridges.

The cold wind ripped into me as I crested each ridge and scanned for Loch Formal. 

I soon found it.  Or rather, I didnt.  Loch Formal is gone.  100% Reed Encroachment, or Eutrophication - call it what you wish - has taken over and the Loch is gone forever.

Actually, at this point, I would dispute its right to be called a Loch - much closer to a Lochan of my reckoning. However, I digress. It is almost certain that most aquatic life has ended in the Loch, with insects probably taking prime place in the mini Eco-System that is (was) this small area of water. 

Much depressed with my discovery (although I have to confess - I kind of expected it), I erected a shelter from the biting wind and brewed some tea and cooked up lunch (BTW - the Millett's own brand 2 x person cooking set, based loosely on the Trangia, is a winner).

Adding to my gloom was the total absence of any Fauna.  Lifting my gloom was the wonderful purple heather and the wild flowers I found.

The clouds and mist showed no signs of clearing as I made my sad way back along the path. I found this "tunnel" in the forest, cleared by the forestry workers, and it led me back down to the quarry, and then to the car. It took me a while to decide on leaving the track.

I cannot recommend my route to anyone - it is not for the fainthearted, especially around the quarry, with hidden rocks covered by heather, and I was also worried about hidden pits and wells. If you do decide to follow it, my advice is to locate the old fence at the foot of the quarry and follow either the left or right fenceposts - I took the left on the way in, and the right on the way back. Good luck! 

As per Sod's Law, the sun came out when I got back to the car! Can anyone help me by naming the wild flowers? As usual, I would love to read your comments!

 

 

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Comments

By ANON on Sep 06 2010 at 3:47 PM
Think the purple/blue flowers are Harebell and the white flowers are Common Mouse-ear Chickweed. Love your tale and photographs. SP

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