My Highland Travelogue

Welcome to my Highland Travelogue Page.   My passion is to explore the Scottish Highland Upland Lochs. When time permits, I will drive to a remote location, park the car, fasten on my backpack and trusty camera, and trek a few miles to discover a hidden Loch or Lochan. My pleasure is to explore the smaller, hidden Lochs and Lochans, rather than the larger, well known ones that are already well documented. 

I think that certain places are "healing" , and I begin to understand why when I sit by a lonely stretch of water, with nobody and nothing around for miles. So far, most of my expeditions have been in Highland Perthshire, for logistical and economic reasons, but I hope to travel further as time passes. I think that maybe I am frightened that my Highlands are threatened and that they may vanish. Perhaps to record them on photograph is my mission? When I stumble unexpectedley on one of those jaw-dropping views, I have mixed thoughts - firstly, I want to share it with the world, then, when I think on, I selfishly want to keep it all to myself.  Often I just stand a while in wonderment.

I am no scientist, but many of our small inland Lochs and Lochans are in decline.
Each has its own mini eco system, and it is the decay of this that is the problem.
Each eco system is made up of many interactive and interdependent parts - water,sediment,fish,insects,animals,weather. Eutrophication (chemical and acid pollution) is causing serious problems to our smaller Lochs and Lochans that do not get the same level of monitoring and protection as those larger and better known examples adopted by S.E.P.A.
The decline of insect life affects the fish life, which affects the Lochan itself, which affects the bird and animal life.
This then causes (some) of the Lochans to be affected by Algae and Reed cover, which then affects light penetration, photosynthesis and the general "life" of the Lochan goes into a rapid decline.
This is happening now. Already, some of the large Raptors are coming down to road level to find food.

I dont know how long they will be there for us, but I have to record them as they are now.
I hope I am wrong.

Above all, I feel priviledged to be allowed the honour to walk on this sacred land - I am finite, my footsteps will soon vanish, but this wonderful place will stand for millions of years.

I will try to describe my adventures as best as I can and I hope that I can share my wonderful Highlands with you.

"Enjoy Life's Journey, But Leave No Tracks" (Cherokee Wolf Clan, with thanks to Sue)

"Your travelogue helped to influence our choice of destination as your pictures and details are superb and really do give that `get away from it all feeling`- Martin Rutherford

Like a large Highland Loch on your wall?  - click here!

If you have any questions about the places I visit, please e-mail me and I will do my best to help!

Loch Gynack

Posted by Graham Lumsden (highlandp) on Jun 25 2009 at 9:23 PM
Highland Travelogue >>

Loch Gynack, birds that dont sleep, a Shot In The Dark, Low Flying Jets, and Fire from the Sky. Wednesday, June 24/25th 2009. Weather: Hot and Sunny. Temperature: 25 degrees. Wind: Pleasant Cooling Westerly.

This was it - my first overnight. I had put it off long enough, and the weather gods promised fair. It was a choice between Laggan and Kingussie (pronounced King-Youssie).

The latter won and I turned off the A9 for Newtonmore and Kingussie on the old A9,some 70 miles North of Perth.  I parked at the big cark park in the village designed for walkers and overnighters. I wandered into the village and had a breakfast at Pam's Coffee Shop, then it was up the hill road until I found a place to leave the car overnight.

I saddled up with my overloaded backpack and set off up the metalled road for around 1.5 miles - no fun carrying the extra weight under a baking hot sun.

Keeping the burn and golf course on your left, you eventually come to this fork - cross the bridge and keep left.

There follows a short gravel drive past some steadings and a big house - bear right and the Loch soon comes into view,nestling between Creag Bheag and Creag Mhor.

I chose to make my way along the North shore and followed a slope into a wooded copse where I found a suitable campsite at the lochside.

I pitched the tent here and got a good fire going. 

Gynack is a good size, with 2 wooded islands, and is very beautifully located. My campsite was peaceful and I just.........................relaxed!  It was bliss listening to the water birds (more of them later) and the gentle lapping of the waves on the shore some 3 feet from my feet! 

The hours went by and I spent much of the time watching the light change from afternoon glare to the "happy hour" of photographers delight as the sun begins to settle, the shadows lengthen, and the light takes on a warm glow. I was not disturbed as I watched the last sunlight disappear from the far mountains.  

Dinner was sausages, mash and beans cooked on my campfire, followed by a nice read of the book I had remembered to bring (I forgot my GPS and mug!) After dinner, I had a gentle stroll to the top of a nearby hill where I had some wonderful views. I earmarked this spot for a nice sunrise the next morning. I settled down for what I hoped would be a quiet night at around 10.00pm. Some chance!  The main problem is that it never really gets dark here at this time of year - just a muddy grey dimness. Then there were the water birds - some kind of waders with long bills - they decided that bedtime for them was midnight, and theIr incessant whistle cry was enough to keep me awake.  I driffted off around 1.00 am to be soon awakened by something crashing through the undergrowth nearby. Another snooze and then I was suddenly awakened by a very noisy jet screaming up the Glen. Right - this time I will get some sleep - hah!  Nary half an hour had passed and I was again awakened, this time by a vehicle of some kind (sound travels for miles up the Glens at night). Then, a little later, 3 loud rifle shots sounded and their echoes sounded like the air was being shredded. I dont know if it was a Deer Stalker or a Poacher. Anyway, that was my last disturbance, apart from discovering that I had pitched the tent on a slight incline and gravity did its best to pitch me into the Loch every 5 minutes.  At 4am the light began to seep into the tent and I pulled on a sweater and made my way to my little hill where I caught the wonderful sunrise.

I cooked breakast of porridge on my little stove and then struck camp at around 6.30a.m.  As I wandered back down the hill, the sun was already baking hot and I was glad to reach the car. I stopped off in Newtonmore at The Grill and had a big fry-up and a wonderful cup of tea. Apart from the usual roadworks at Bankfoot, the journey home was uneventful.

Summary: I enjoyed the overnight experience, although I dont think I will attempt it too often. I found it hard to maintain the stamina on a hill while carrying overnight supplies, which made my backpack much heavier than I had anticipated. Sleep was elusive, but the sunrise was something very special. Overall, a nice trip on a wonderful couple of days.

As usual, please leave your comments!

 

p.s. - its time to say goodbye to my trusy old Clio -we have travelled many a mile together and we have shared some wonderful sights over the last few years. I can honestly say that it has never let me down. But now its time for that Scrapyard In The Sky and it has been traded for a younger motor.  Vaya con Dios Amigo!

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Comments

Islands By ANON on Jun 25 2009 at 10:03 PM
A beautiful spot, Graham! I love the shots of the islands. Also loved the flowers (foxglove?). Any heather blooming yet? I'm glad you got the chance to overnight!! Thanks for sharing.
Sue
Islands, Foxgloves and Purple Heather By Graham Lumsden on Jun 26 2009 at 5:40 AM
Hiya Sue, and thanks for leaving a wee note. Those Islands look tempting, dont they? I think its a lonely little Foxglove there. The heather is turning a little late this year. If you look closely at the 3rd sunrise shot, you can just see the purple catching the light on the hillside.
Sleepless By ANON on Jul 10 2009 at 11:28 AM
Hello Graham,
I enjoyed seeing an area I've not visited for some time. What kind of sleeping bag do you use?
The occasional sleepless night doesn't do any harm other than make you a little grumpy but
I think bed and home is best.
RJL. P.S. I like seeing the car at the start every time. Good touch.
Re: Sleepless By Graham Lumsden on Jul 10 2009 at 4:53 PM
Hi, Thanks for stopping by! Almost all of my gear is Vango (plug!) - it has never let me down. Its the Mummy type that you can get real cosy in. I'm hoping for another overnight before the cold weather - watch this space!

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