My Highland Travelogue

Welcome to my Highland Travelogue Page.   My passion is to explore the Scottish Highland Upland Lochs. When time permits, I will drive to a remote location, park the car, fasten on my backpack and trusty camera, and trek a few miles to discover a hidden Loch or Lochan. My pleasure is to explore the smaller, hidden Lochs and Lochans, rather than the larger, well known ones that are already well documented. 

I think that certain places are "healing" , and I begin to understand why when I sit by a lonely stretch of water, with nobody and nothing around for miles. So far, most of my expeditions have been in Highland Perthshire, for logistical and economic reasons, but I hope to travel further as time passes. I think that maybe I am frightened that my Highlands are threatened and that they may vanish. Perhaps to record them on photograph is my mission? When I stumble unexpectedley on one of those jaw-dropping views, I have mixed thoughts - firstly, I want to share it with the world, then, when I think on, I selfishly want to keep it all to myself.  Often I just stand a while in wonderment.

I am no scientist, but many of our small inland Lochs and Lochans are in decline.
Each has its own mini eco system, and it is the decay of this that is the problem.
Each eco system is made up of many interactive and interdependent parts - water,sediment,fish,insects,animals,weather. Eutrophication (chemical and acid pollution) is causing serious problems to our smaller Lochs and Lochans that do not get the same level of monitoring and protection as those larger and better known examples adopted by S.E.P.A.
The decline of insect life affects the fish life, which affects the Lochan itself, which affects the bird and animal life.
This then causes (some) of the Lochans to be affected by Algae and Reed cover, which then affects light penetration, photosynthesis and the general "life" of the Lochan goes into a rapid decline.
This is happening now. Already, some of the large Raptors are coming down to road level to find food.

I dont know how long they will be there for us, but I have to record them as they are now.
I hope I am wrong.

Above all, I feel priviledged to be allowed the honour to walk on this sacred land - I am finite, my footsteps will soon vanish, but this wonderful place will stand for millions of years.

I will try to describe my adventures as best as I can and I hope that I can share my wonderful Highlands with you.

"Enjoy Life's Journey, But Leave No Tracks" (Cherokee Wolf Clan, with thanks to Sue)

"Your travelogue helped to influence our choice of destination as your pictures and details are superb and really do give that `get away from it all feeling`- Martin Rutherford

Like a large Highland Loch on your wall?  - click here!

If you have any questions about the places I visit, please e-mail me and I will do my best to help!

Return to Oisineach Mor

Posted by Graham Lumsden (highlandp) on Dec 27 2008 at 9:35 PM
Highland Travelogue >>

I have visited before as you can read with my earlier 'logue.
I had wanted to go back for some time.
Its a beautiful walk and normally sparsley populated, which suits me fine.
Now, Oisineach is prononounced "Auchnashee" by the locals, and I was informed that there is a lesser Loch just behind the main one, and this was another reason for the trek
The walk is lengthy, and took me 6.75 hours beginning to end, with stops.
You turn into Ballinluig of the A9 at the new interchange and turn left through the village and head for Tulliemet.
Pass through Tulliemet until you come to a sign "Brown Street", where you turn sharp left, uphill.
This is a short track and you park before the gate:

The first thing you will hear is the sharp "Kee - Kee" of a Buzzard that makes its home amongst the trees here.
Follow the track uphill through several gates - some of these gates are "lifting" gates - they do not sit well on their hinges and need some strength to lift them free of their catches.
When you reach the top of the hill, the landscape and Flora change to that of heather moorland:

The climb is strenous to this point, but soon levels out.
As you walk, look over to your right until you see this ruined cottage in the far distance, next to a conifer tree:



You will reach the cottage after about 1 hours hike.
This makes a good aiming point, and is a good spot to have a break, which I did, and used the nearby stream to wash off some sweat of the walk so far.
Follow the track round the side of the hill, keeping left all the way as it starts to climb again.


At this point, there are some wonderful views off to your left


It becomes quite tricky walking on the track because its not quite wide enough for two feet and is a little awkward at times.

After walking for around 2 hours, the Loch appears around the side of a hill in front of you




I found a good site for a camp halfway along the West shore, paying attention to the the three "W's" -
Wood, Weather, and Widowmakers!
Another cup of tea here, but no fire or shelter yet.
I wanted to find the Lesser Lochan nearby, but I had a problem -
I didnt have a map.
Now, I hike on a very small budget, and maps are expensive, and although I add to my collection when I can, I dont yet have a proper map of the area.
When I got to the end of the loch, I was faced with two paths - left and right.
I climbed a nearby hill for a bearing, and I chose the left track - wrong!

The track climbs steeply and eventually opened out onto a gorgeous depression like a huge crater, with a far distant loch at the far end.



This was one of those seminal moments where beauty and awe conspire to make you stand in silence to take in what you are seeing - truly wonderful scenery.
The loch turned out to be Loch Broom, which I have already visited (see earlier blog).
I turned back at this point, not having the legs to search further.
I retraced my steps to my earlier chosen campsite and made a fire from pine branches.
Here I learned something new.
I learned that pine burns fiercely due to the resin it contains.
This resulted in my meal cooking far too quickly, and the water I used to cover my potatoes, sausage and tomato soon evaporated, causing me to use too much of my precious water supplies.
I had to resort to taking water from the loch and boiling it.
Hiking and camping is fascinating - I am always learning something new each time I go.


It was then back along the trail with some lovely views



It was at this point that I had a visit from a Jolly Green Giant!



Making my way back down the steep hill, I caught sight of a wonderful pair of deer - you can just see them in this picture



So, in spite of not finding the Lesser Lochan, I had a wonderful, if tiring, hike.
The overall time, with stops, was 6.75 hours.
I would LOVE you to leave me a comment!

Back

Comments

Joe By ANON on Jul 28 2008 at 8:57 PM
Good loch for a return visit. It is many years since I saw it. Its little bnrother is not far away - certainly not as far as Loch Broom!
Jock's Bothy, the ruined cottage, I read lately has an old circular stone by it. This was used to measure out flour or grain - when the grain covered the edges of the stone when poured into the middle in a mound: that was how much you paid for.
Good deer.

Jock's Bothy By Graham Lumsden on Jul 28 2008 at 9:29 PM
Good story Joe.
I didnt see the stone, but I will have a look the next time I'm up there.
There is a stream nearby with lovely clear water.
You can get a free copy of the cottage on the Image Of The Month page for August if you like!
finding the small loch By ANON on Aug 17 2008 at 4:12 PM
Hi there Graham,I`ve been following your logue for sometime now as i`ve walked to a lot of the lochs you`ve been to,including;skiach,ordie,oiseneach mor.The quickest way to the smaller loch is to park at brown street and climb until you get to jock bothy(the ruined cottage in your photo).just after the bothy bare right up the hill.After a 45min walk you will hit sarahs,you will know what i`m on about when you get there.You are now only a 5min walk from the south side of oisineach mor.Once you make it to the loch just follow the path for another 25min and you will make it to the smaller loch.You will notice that the path circles the loch,if you follow it it will take you back to the larger loch but on the north side,continue and you will end up back at jocks bothy.Along way for a short cut,quicker to stick to the route just mentioned and returning the same way.If the weather is bad bare this in mind as the small top loch is very open with no cover,although is well worth the vist.Hope this helps,third time lucky,keep up the good work,Gordon.

Alternative Route By Graham Lumsden on Aug 18 2008 at 3:51 PM
Hi Gordon! - and thanks for the heads up - I'll try that route the next time - although its a sair climb!
Good to have you on board.
By ANON on Apr 08 2009 at 2:37 AM
Hi Graham, thanks for remembering me with the Jolly Green picture. It's an awesome machine. They are mostly used by our Marines and Air Force. The Army has none. Remember, we talked about cooking with pine. Sue and I camp occasionally. No caravans, just tents. Food seems to taste better when cooked over an open fire. Be safe and keep the logues coming. I hope someday we will hike together over here.
Durand
Jolly Green By Graham Lumsden on Apr 11 2009 at 2:51 PM
Welcome Durand. Thanks for leaving a comment. I hope we can too.
Jock's bothy 9th July 09 By ANON on Jul 11 2009 at 8:09 PM
See it while you can - part of one of the gable ends has now collapsed and the estate have "helpfully" put notices round about stating the obvious - dangerous structure! Camped at the big loch overnight - 3 Great Nothern Divers on the loch and the Osprey. Pip - Perth.
Jock's Bothy By Graham Lumsden on Jul 11 2009 at 9:08 PM
Oh no! That's a disaster. I so love that old cottage - its a real landmark. I hope the estate is going to patch it up and not knock it all down. That is so sad. Glad to hear that someone else saw the Osprey. I must get back up there soon. Thanks for your comments!

Add Comment

Looking For Fishing? Just type the location in the box below:


search term or % sign for all locations:
Websites for Photographers created by Click-IT